It’s been a while since I’ve owned a full suspension bike. I suppose the Banshee Titan was ‘almost’ mine at some point given that it was mostly hung with my bits and bobs, but, whether rigid or running a suspension fork, it’s mainly been my Walt V2 that I’d consider my personal stable. I’m so eager to get back on my single speed. I mean, I’m giddy to even just to ride around the block on my reNEWed-to-me commuter rig in a couple weeks. But, for trail use, I recognize (and have been beaten over the head with the fact – thanks, Scott) that the rigid one speed is going to have to wait a while.
That has me headed down the path of building up a full suspension bike of my very own. Which, I’m sure, will also act as a test mule for some parts for NSMB. Speaking of, I wrote a piece ages ago (it was 2020) called You Should Try A Friction Thumb Shifter and for my new rig, I’ve decided to take my own advice.
I’ve carried over the, mostly complete, Shimano Dura-Ace Barend shifter I’ve owned since 2006 or 2007. It’s been on commuter and mountain rigs and has been missing the plastic cap for probably half its life but it still works in friction or indexed mode. Also, the same lovely brass barrel adjuster that I bought from Darren at Dream Cycle around the same time.
What’s new is the fresh Paul Thumbie base. The old one is, of course, still prime for action (read, ready for me to sell used) but I replaced it for a couple of reasons. First, the new Thumbie positions the shifter a bit more proud so that it will clear my brake levers in the more-French position that I run them in. Second, the hinged clamp makes life much, much, easier when you run push-on grips.
Friction shifting is fun. It adds a challenge. It always works. It’s the universal key to combining different derailleurs, cassettes, chains, etc. I think on top of all that it makes you a better – or at least smarter and more efficient – rider as being in the right gear to maximize momentum requires brain-on riding.
In other words. Even if you hate it. Using a friction shifter is good training that I think translates to the more efficient and thoughtful use of a multi-release indexed trigger shifter as well.
I love products that broadcast their hard lives full of trail abuse, with all the signs of wear-and-tear, but which function as new. My Wolf Tooth ReMote is one of those products, and it’s still on the original bearing. It too received the brass barrel adjust upgrade.
Speaking of, yes the one-piece brass adjusters stay put perfectly. I love that they replace a three-part-product and deliver the same function, and superior aesthetics, with a simpler structure. Thanks, Darren!
The grips are wired. After much digging, I found my 36.5mm seat clamp (where I put it, on Claire’s bike, so I have another Chromag one on the way). I think my 40mm NSB Overlord stem will be perfect. It can be a 29’er or a mullet and while I’ll likely run it as a mullet to start I’ll plan to try the bike both ways. I’ll post some more updates on this (and my Walt V1 ATB, as well) as my build progresses.
Love me some (not boring) bicycle projects.